Day of biking, day of beach, day of going to the zoo

At the Palmyra? Zoo.

In order to download the photos I have to go backwards so last comes first, and I'll send the day before tomorrow. You won't mind will you? Enjoy our day at the zoo, and the biking and beach, tomorrow.

Don't ask me which day comes first. It's a little confusing at this point.
I can work it out if I try, but it's 11 pm at night, and I'm thinking that asking Diane to write creatively at 11pm is like asking my Grandma to sing opera at 10 AM. But we don't need creative writing, do we? Just the facts, ma'mm . And a few photos to open the way.
I do know that on Monday we rented bikes, and the plan was to tool around until six, when we'd meet Khaldia at the cafe, and then go home for dinner. She'd spend the day getting gorgeous at the beach. Didn't quite work out that way, and I discovered, 1) I had the house keys in my pocket, 2) I don't know how to use a French pay phone, no matter how I try, 3) Khaldia is the sweetest most forgiving soul on the planet. At 7pm we finally urged a passer-by who parlayed anglay to call her on her cell, and discover she'd been trapped home all that time.

To make up for it we treated her to ice cream in town, and danced to a salsa band there. The next day was non-stop beach, and the next a trip to pomeray zoo. Palm trees line many boulevards in Royan, but I didn't realize how tropical the climate was till I saw the open and expansive animal playgrounds among the rivers, waterfalls, pines and palms of the place.
It was our first really hot, hot day, not terrific for viewing furry mammals, who thought better than we did of exerting any effort whatsoever. The lion was prone under the bridge, and the tiger and his mate clung to whatever shadows they could find. Still, there's certain spirits you can't hold down, especially when there's a rubber dragon dangling in their faces.
Mostly the police we see ride on bikes wearing shorts. Hard to take them seriously. Didn't see a single Zoo official, and the mobbed crowds sensed it. The vendors are far too dignified and composed to do anything like say, "Hey! Whader ya tryin to do, fr crying out loud? Feeding popcorn to these endangered beasts? Do you know what it does to them? And for the love of heaven, throwin COINS in the SEAL tank? Are you out of your ever-lovin GOURDS?" [The people who serve food here have all the self-esteem and class of anyone selling diamonds at Tiffany's. It is an honor. They are doing you a wonderful favor by being who they are and where they are. It takes me aback. Makes me rethink things.]

Non. The SIGNS say something like 'please don't feed the animals', I think. But the crowds of loving families pull out bags of popcorn, tear pieces of their baggettes and sandwiches, and feed, feed away, little tots holding crumbs out for the elephant to snatch it, or the ostrich, or giraffe. Maybe it's ok. The animals didn't mind one bit. Emma Nour made a list at the end of the day of every animal she touched.

On to the photos, and whatever comments I can manage at 11:33 pm. [Not complaining. The full moon woke me up before sunrise, shimmering across the ocean. What a privilege to be here.

This one, showing the playful and other-worldly archicecture of the zoo, were taken by Khaldia. The next four pictures as well.

The ugliest, most endearing donkey. Emma Nour got a chance to pet him.

But not him. Way off on an island.

This tiger, complete with Aicha's toes, and the following four photos, are taken by Aicha. She loves taking pictures.

EN adding to her list of animals she's touched. A did too.

Also pet by EN, after climbing up the railing a bit.

She couldn't touch these otters, but the dragon almost became their dinner.

Yup, they pet the ostrich. On the back. EN was a little too shy to get the bread she was given close to that beak. (Picture by Aicha) p.s. I'd have EN's pictures here too, except my computer won't accept them. We'll try in Paris to download some). Aicha's photos follow:

Emma Nour took a great movie of these guys talking to each other and one climbig over the other to get outside.


Dragon's last entertainment of the evening.


After the zoo we wanted to cool off with a swim, and driving back from the zoo, in bumper-to-bumper renaults, opals, peugeuts and other bug-like autos, we noticed cars parked besides the pine woods that lined the road, and people packing up beach gear. Not hard to pause and ask, after an inviting peek at a sandy pathway, --as we were creeping along, -- if the beach was near. Oui! So we pulled over and grabbed the bags of towels and suits, headed down there. Is it very long? asked the girls after a few hundred feet. How should we know? Finally light, and shore, and a narrow beach with super pounding waves. EN dashed in. Aicha followed, and I discreetly got dressed to follow her. Too late. She came back distressed. The wave had catapulted her, and her glasses were gone. I was more concerned for EN's safety at that point, beaming with glee at each wave [they used to chant at the very safe and tame waves on the St. Georges beach "I wish for a really big wave but not a tsunami and nothing that will drown anyone, not even naked people". Over and over. Honest. ) anyway I ran in, calling to her and she came in all safe, was distressed about the glasses, and we both went looking in the safer surf. Aicha at first felt awful, and vulnerable. Then she had this thought that some needy person in China will find them. We stayed awhile looking, then made our way home. Aicha took photos of the forest, as it reminded her of Prince Caspian's forest. I was glad she had her spirits back.

Aicha's Prince Caspian Woods, taken even without her glasses.


We ordered new glasses today, and shopped in the rain, hung out, editted pictures. So even with the early rising, it was an easy day. Let's see what tomorrow brings. We send you all our love. --d, A, EN and K

butterflies and chocolate on Thursday

The most evocative thing to me at the garden in royan. I'd never seen an olive grove, and this one had a tree over 1800 years old. We had to pose of course.

Down below you'll read EN's account of battling on stools. This is it. She couldn't comprehend that Aicha actully won all her battles. She did. She loved it. Don't ask me why this is in a garden. It just is. I'd have to speak french to ask. The girls loved it.

Thursday ended with a trip to a chocolate factory. Here we are, licking our fingers, laughing how 5 euros of chocolate can disapear in 5 seconds.

forgive me for putting the last picture in the middle, but the minutes here have just worked out. Bear with me. We're on to St. Germaine de didion tomorrow. We're ready for a change. Hopefully they'll have wifi at something less than a euro every 10 minutes.

Love to all,

d. -- meanwhile, read on

This is EN's take on the day, as described to her mom:

Hi Mommy,I will tell you what we did on thursday. first of all we went to a garden. We saw butterflies in all different colors. Then we saw goats. Me and Aicha went on a trampoline then fought with cushions on stools. I always lost. It was weird but aicha ha a hard time falling. We also went on a long slide that was high up. Also we went on a small obsticle course. We all went through the garden. Oh, yeah I forget we went in a labrinth. Then me and aicha wen on carts that you have to peddle to move. goodnight Mommy. I miss you!!!!Emma Nour Belabbes

They also took pictures. This is Aicha's.

The kid's favorite part of the day. EN is yelling at A to slow down! Watch out! She herself tuck two turns and burned the rubber on every corner.

Oh, and there were goats to pet.

And the butterfly exhibit did intrigue them, small as it was, the specimens were lovely.

Here's the garden from outside, taken by aicha. The square bushes are supposed to look Japanese. That's ok. It's new. They'll work on it.
They'll send someone to Japan or Brooklyn to see how it's done.

love to all,

d.

Royan and the cruise up the shore

This is our place, just past the hollyhocks, a few blocks up from the town and the ocean front. I love that a blooming mimosa greets us. Here are the girls trudging back from the beach on Monday.

We always pass a place of garages where wild cats gather. EN thrills to this each time. Here's one. Today we saw a mass of ground meat at the fence, so we know why they gather here. Quietly cared for, like everything else here.

Wednesday we took a boat ride up past St Georges Dimain, then out to a light house. An intelligent man's voice came out of the speaker describing the views and the history. Too bad we couldn't understand a word. Khaldia translated, something about WWII, and you could see those german bunkers with slits for eyes. She said Royan was bombed relentlessly, so most of the town was post-war, and many of the buildings are 50's and 60's feeling. When we got out to the light house, we wondered what made this stone tower so special, and then she scribbled in ink that it was built in 1300! Then the cameras came out!

Between buying the tickets and the launching time, we walked around to find a place to have lunch. The 'park' was little more than a wide medium strip, but still planted with lovely flowers, and enjoyed by a few picnicking families. We found an open air restaurant, and the waiter was delightful. It's specialty was mussels, and EN snarfed them down like candy, while Khaldia ate them delicately. Khaldia's a far better cook, but the mussells were the best I've tasted.

Then the girls spotted this carousel, two stories! and of course needed a ride. Afterwards Aicha admitted she was a little old for it, and it would probably be her last, but who could blame her? A real work of art.

The carousel! Two stories. While we were

If you look closely on top, you'll see the old German bunker. This is between Royan and St Germaine.

Houses, built right into the cliffs, for miles and miles, some amazingly elegant, some as crude as caves. Many grottos where submarines and contraband guns hid during the war.

The girls had a special companionship during the trip, watching, feeling the breeze and the adventure.

Here's the tower. I'll download Aicha's camera. She usually gets the best pictures of things.

Khaldia, and the French flag waving. She's someone to trust for the right thing to do on the right day, cheerful, and loving. She soothes the girls awake with arabic endearments that are like music, and takes their antics with a laugh. And there's no better restaurant in Royan than the one in our own little apartment. What a joy to be here with her and the girls.

Tomorrow, on to some a garden, of sorts, a chocolate museum, and a quiet day painting.

Much love to all,

d.

Monday and Tuesday, long, long days at the beach

Up and at em, Monday, as I said before, after going to the amazing outdoor/indoor market, and picking up the floats for the waves (no rules about no toys, but carefully watchful lifeguards striding the beach, with flippers in hand and a motorboat ready). Everything for fun, and the girls were psyched.

Khaldia prepares the mussels and Calamari..

And we're packed and off to the big time beach. EN gapes a bit as we pass a grandmother or two going topless. She quietly sings a little of the 'do your ears hang low do they wobble to and fro. . .' only with a substtution for the word 'ears'. Still, after romping in the waves that come in high and wonderfully strong, there's a few bodies to be buried, a little snack to be had.

Tuesday it was on to a smaller beach, a smaller one on the other side of the town center, lined with great piles of rocks, the lower ones encased in oyster shells and barnacles. EN found this wonderful. She remembered a time when their daddy found a mussel crop under a bridge and they collected bucketl loads and shared them with her friends.

The waves were mild and the wind cool. Swimming was swimming, but there's just so much of that you can do. We'd bought an umbrella, for shade, and there's always reading. But I'd bought a little rubber dragon in Cambridge, feeling it would pass the time on the trip. I took him out, and instead of grabbing it from me and threatening its dire murderous end by choking, stretching , sllicing or hacking, EN simply buried it in the sand, then decided it needed it's own city, dragon city. She mapped out a 20' square, and built walls all around, then paths in the center which would lead to a high tower where the dragon would reign. We'd need some shells for the tower, so we collected them at the shore. Lovely yellow to rose barnacle shells.

Aicha reminded me of Paul, you couldn't get her out of the water. Hour after hour. She just loved being there, pondering life, observing people.

We finally went home, sandy, sun-tanned, exhausted, and Khaldia whipped together a lovely quiche and salad. I was exhausted, but dragged myself out after midnight to send off messages,but the place was closed. I didn't mind. There's this amazing quiet in the town streets, and bright stars shine overhead. Magical.

More about the town tomorrow, and the boat ride down the coast.

much love to all,

d.